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I did the 300+ hour front axle fluid change on my '96 1520. On the final drives at each front wheel, the drive was so full that when I removed the top fill cap it ran out all over, so when I re-filled I filled it competely full the same way, both sides. Is that OK to do or should they be filled almost to the top? There is no dipstick on the front drives, almost looks like you would check it like a transfer case or something by sticking your little finger in it. I also wanted to check with you guys on the right fluid to use. My owners manual calls for 134 Hydraulic oil for everything on this tractor (which is what I used, (except of course for engine oil), what I drained out of the drives and front axle looked to be alittle different like a gear oil (kind of a light gray color). I overfilled the front axle slightly (just a tad over the hatched marks)but its difficult to check almost a clear fluid on a polished dipstick (I don't know why they don't make them black or some other color). Thanks for any advice.

Ford 134 Hydraulic Oil
Parts and Repair
Replies 2 Post by Fritz Campbell

I don't want to start anything and I know it has been discussed to near death several times in the past but what is the difference between diesel fuel and home heating oil? The fellow who delivers my home heating oil tells me its exactly the same thing except for the coloring added in to easily tell if truckers are running home heating oil to avoid extremely high road taxes. As a matter of fact he told me that he uses home heating oil in all his diesel tractors, has never used "store bought" diesel, never added any additives of any type and has never had a problem with any of them. I seem to remember some posts awhile back on this subject about the sulfur content or whatever and a loss of power running the home heating oil. His opinion is that the low sulfur story is hogwash. I wouldn't mind having him fill up a couple 5 gal containers the next time he is filling my home oil tank. I don't use but maybe 20 gallons in a years time with my New Holland 1520 and the cost savings @ approximately .50 per gallon isn't going to let me retire any sooner but I wouldn't have to run to the local Sheetz to get it everytime I needed it either. I'd appreciate knowing what others use. Thank you!

Fuel question
Parts and Repair
Replies 4 Post by Fritz Campbell

Thank you all for the replies on the New Holland filters. I have a question from my brother who has a nice little Kubota 7300 16hp. He noticed that he is blowing oil from the dipstick when mowing. This is a practically new tractor that he only uses for mowing (60" deck)he has less than 100 hrs on it. He just noticed this oil blowing problem recently. Any advice on what could be causing this problem? The only thing that he hasn't done maintenance-wise is change out the air filter-but he has blew it off several times (inside out). He is running it approximately half way between add and full on the dipstick. As always, I appreciate the advice.

Kubota 7300 blowing oil
Parts and Repair
Replies 2 Post by Fritz Campbell

Anyone have an aftermarket oil filter for a New Holland 1520 diesel? The Fram Ph16, although identical in size, is not recommended by Fram due to the New Holland filter having more internal pleats and higher "pop-off" pressure. I like to change my oil every 50 hrs and would like to have a few spare filters around. The New Holland filters are pricey at just short of $7 - $8 and for me kind of a pain to go get. I'll appreciate any experience and advice.

Oil Filters for New Holland 1520
Parts and Repair
Replies 4 Post by Fritz Campbell

What is the solvent for New Holland paints? Everything I've tried, including lacquer thinner, mineral sprits, even gasoline, to clean my brushes won't touch it. The paint (New Holland Blue Acrylic 9613386DS) contains Xylol, Toluol and Petroleum Distillates. Will a Napata or some other solvent do the trick?I suppose New Holland Thinner is an option but I'm not thinning to spray, just clean-up. Thanks for any help.

Solvent for New Holland Pain
Parts and Repair
Replies 2 Post by Fritz Campbell

I figure I have enough worries right now, with my oldest daughter starting to drive in Feburary here in PA, without worrying about $.50 worth of Calcium ruining my $400 rear wheels so I have a question(s) on filling rear tractor tires for added rear weight.I have seen valves that have air releases on the side, are these the right valves for filling a tubed tire with fluid? The ones I've seen screw onto the tubes valve stem (after removing the inside portion) and hook up to the male end of a garden hose on the other with the air release in the middle. 1) Will I live long enough at 41 to be able to fill two 11 x 24 rear tires with anti-freeze I mix myself via a funnel / garden hose through the valve stem?2) Approximately how many gallons would be required to fill them? Since used anti-freeze is not readily available due to being toxic, I'll probably need to buy it new, possibly bulk (55 gal drum) and mix it 50/50 myself. 3)If I lay the tires down flat and fill that way, how do I know when they are say 75% full so I don't overload them. I've been told that one should never fill a tire completely due to any liquids incompressability and the danger of exploding the tire if hitting something and there is no room for the tire to "give". Handling the filled tire doesn't figure to be easy, I have wondered how I will raise the now filled wheel back up to mount it. I have thought of lifting it by a jack or rolling the loaded tire up on to a couple of stacked boards and raising or lowering the tractor jack accordingly.I have a Farmall Cub wheel weight mounted on my rear wheels now. I guess them weigh around 70 lbs each, but they are not enough and I don't want to use the 3-pt for a weight bar since I use a 60" Woods back blade for moving snow and light dirt grading. Additional wheel weights are very expensive and hard to come by unless I want to buy them new. I don't use the tractor for mowing in the yard and only for light loader work and brush hogging so I'm not worrying about damaging anything around the house with loaded rear tires. I have a set of wheels with turfs if I ever change my mind about grass mowing with it. Thanks for any help.

Valve for filling tires
Parts and Repair
Replies 12 Post by Fritz Campbell

Thank you gentlemen for your advice. I'm going to run a fused wire direct from the battery with an in-line switch somewhere near the steering wheel to a light on each side of the ROPS. I think I'll make the lights quick disconnect and remove them in the summer so I don't remove them by mistake when brush mowing. Its a little more work but I'd rather have them independent of any other lights / flashers and don't really need them on the whole time I'm plowing. I'll get started right away.

I'll weld light brackets to my ROPS for mounting them. My ROPS on my New Holland 1520 is standard, run of the mill, low carbon 2" square tubing. Mig welding a small piece of 1010 or 1040 low carbon flat steel with a hole in it shouldn't compromise its integrity in case of a rollover emergency. Now before someone writes back and gives me the old, "now I just wouldn't go and bet your life on it sonny", speech, I'm conscious of safety---period---and appreciate all the safety advice I receive but I don't care for people reminding me of it. I do agree however that the safety post reply was called for since this is a public board and others may not know all the details. I also agree that the unexperienced should not cut, weld or otherwise modify any ROPS on their tractors - period.

Extra light capacity
Tractor Projects
Replies 8 Post by Fritz Campbell

I'm interested in a Landpride finish mower with rear discharge. Will an air-tunnel mower do a better job in relation to the price difference and do air-tunnel mowers come in rear discharge? Any experiences? I have approximately 1 1/2 acres of rolling / sloped yard to keep up and thought the 60" deck width would give me the best cut versus mowing time trade off. Thanks for any advice.

Finish mowers
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 6 Post by Fritz Campbell

It is supposed to be 90 degrees in our part of PA today but I can't help thinking how nice it would be to have a 3 pt. snowblower for this coming winter. I have a 1520 New Holland with loader and usually use a back blade/loader combo for snow removal and it works good enough. I thought with the blower that it would be quicker (maybe only 1 pass vs several for the backblade in deep snow) and I could avoid the huge piles of snow everywhere that seem to stay around forever. <br>Having a gravel driveway, I was planning on making an additional set of skids to keep the blower at least 2 inches off the surface. Having used a walk behind blower for small jobs, I know that gravel will get picked up in the snow and thrown 50', but it has to be less than plowing. <br>I've seen the rear mount blowers around and wondered what other experiences are out there. I mentioned the snowblower to the wife and she looked at me like I had a screw loose since we're heading to a 4th of July party. Thanks for any suggestions and/or recommendations. Have a safe, happy 4th of July.

Rear mount snowblower
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 1 Post by Fritz Campbell

What does the term

Are there any sites out there that deal with or have additional information on these grey market tractors? I would appreciate any help.
"> Grey Market tractors
Other Tractor Brands
Replies 2 Post by Fritz Campbell